My many buttons
Immensely popular, yes: on Ravelry! Katie Marcus, who published the pattern on her blog, has only given some instructions for a try-on-as-you-go project as she calls it; it is based on Elizabeth Zimmerman’s percentage system.
I added stripes and did a completely different ribbing. I measured out my whole project using my measurements and a knitted swatch, so I didn’t need to try it on all the time. Feel free to use my directions and the check sheet, but do keep an eye on the original pattern on Katie Marcus’ site, as that gives a good overview.
My method and mods:
Gauge: 21sts and 28 rows = 10x10cm
Size: appr 34″, with a lot of waist shaping (from 34″ around the chest to 30″ at the waist and 34″ at the hips again)
Yarn used: Cascade 220 Heathers, colorways Turtle and Celery. 3,3 skeins of Turtle, 1,4 skeins of Celery.
Needles used: 4.5mm, 80cm circs
13 buttons, appr 1,5cm
Using cable cast on, I cast on 129 sts. I worked the ribbing as follows (buttonband in moss stitch followed by a variation on the “hindu pillar rib” from Nicky Epstein’s Knitting on the edge (pg 20), followed by another buttonband in moss stitch):
Row 1 (rs): sl1, k1,p1,k1,p1,k1; *k1, p3tog without dropping sts, k3tog in the same 3 sts, p3tog in the same 3 sts* repeat until 6 sts remain, k1,p1,k1,p1,k1,p1.
Row 2 (ws): sl 1,p1,k1,p1,k1,p1; purl until 6 sts remain, p1,k1,p1,k1,p1, k1.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 2 more times.
Place markers row (rs): sl1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, pm, k19 (the left sleeve), pm, k42 (the back), pm, k19 (the right sleeve), pm, k38, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1.
Body is worked in stockinette st (k on rs, p on ws), keeping the moss stitch buttonband intact and following the color change, buttonhole and increase/decrease pattern stated in this check sheet. Remember to slip the first st on every row, that makes the neatest edge.
When reaching the point where the work has to be divided for the sleeves, the stitches for the sleeves (all sts between the two sets of markers) are put on waste yarn, and the body is continued in the round over the remaining stitches.
After finishing the body, the rib is worked like the neckline. You will need to make 2 sts somewhere to make the numbers right, so work your first Row 1 like this:
k1, *p3tog without dropping sts, k3tog in the same sts, p3tog in the same sts and drop them, k1*, repeat 4 times (total 5 times). You should now have 2 sts left before the first marker. p2tog without dropping sts, k2tog, p2tog and drop sts; you have increased with one st. Slip marker, k1, and repeat ** until there are 3 sts left before the next marker. Work the nupp in these 3 sts, sl marker, k1. P2tog without dropping sts, k2tog, p2tog and drop sts (another 1 st increase), k1, and repeat ** until the button band.
Work Row 2 of the rib pattern.
Work Rows 1-2 of the rib pattern (as stated for the neckline) 2 more times. Next row: bind off using the yarn over bind off.
I used exactly 2 skeins of Turtle at this point! And a little less than 1.25 skein of Celery.
Waste yarn on the sts put aside is removed, and sleeves are knit in the round using magic loop method. I actually knit the sleeves 2 at a time, on long circulars.The check sheet for the sleeves is on page 2 of the check sheet.
To make the stripes come out nicely, I used the technique for making jogless stripes from the TECHknitting blog.
After finishing the sleeves, weave in all the many ends; I broke the yarn every time I finished a stripe, so I had a lot of ends to weave in. Add the buttons (I used some of the ends for that; as most of the button holes were placed at the beginning of a stripe, the ends could be used for sewing on the buttons!).
I blocked my sweater, placing it under a wet wet towel and straightening it out, so that creases in the stockinette part were removed and the slightly curling rib flattened out.
k = knit
p = purl
st = stitch
sts = stitches
sl = slip stitch from left to right needle without knitting it
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
p2tog = purl 2 sts together
rs = right side
ws = wrong side
pm = place marker